DIY 5.7L Tundra Oil Change

[awd4life]

Disclaimer: If you are unwilling or unable, do not perform this maintenance by yourself. Contact your local dealership for service. I cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during or after this procedure.

The tools that you’ll need:

3/8” socket wrench
3” 3/8” extension
10 mm socket (or Phillips screwdriver)
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
65mm 14 flute oil filter wrench
Toyota Oil Filter Kit: P/N 04152-YZZA4, or WIX Filter 57041. Note that the WIX filter does include two o-rings like the Toyota kit, but does not include the plastic filter drain "tool". If you don't know what I mean, read on.
7 Quarts 0W20 or 5W20*

*The manual does call for 7.5 quarts, but as you read, you'll see why I used only 7.



First thing you’ll need to do is remove the skid plate, if you have one. There are 3 screws (holes identified in yellow) that have Phillips ends, but you can use the 10 mm socket since it’ll be easier and there are 5 2” long bolts (identified by red) holding the skid up. Use your 12 mm socket with extension to get these loose. It’s probably better to remove the front 3 screws and work your way back as the bolts will help hold the skid up until you are ready to remove. I couldn’t get a picture of what to do to remove the skid, but once all bolts are out, you’ll need to push the whole skid up and slide it towards the driver side. Then release and it should come down. Be careful not to whack yourself in the head with the thing…it’s a little heavy.



Once you remove the skid, you’ll need to identify where the oil filter (in yellow) and bulk oil drain bolt (in red) are located. I’ve indicated them as pictured.



You’ll need a 14 mm socket to loosen the oil drain bolt. I use it to break it loose, and then I unscrew it with my hand. Get ready for a mess! Make sure you have your oil pan more towards the passenger wheel as the oil will shoot that way. Take a break by drinking a beer or whatever; it’ll take some time for the 7 quarts of oil to drain. Once the oil is dripping out of the hole, hand tighten the bolt back into the hole, taking care not to cross-thread the bolt. Then use the 14 mm socket to tighten. Torque: 40 N·m (408 kgf·cm, 30 ft·lbf).




Use your 3/8” extension to loosen the oil filter drain bolt. Don’t worry; very little oil will come out when you remove the bolt. Above is what it’ll look like with the bolt removed. You will have to use that plastic “tool” that comes with the Toyota Oil Filter Kit to help drain the oil out of the filter area. I’ve been changing my own oil since I’ve been driving and this was the messiest, most pain-in-the-a$$ thing I’ve ever dealt with, even over my Mazda3GT. I had to push up (and hard!) to get the oil to come out. Even after pushing up and having the oil drain for 5 minutes I still didn’t get it all. It would have been a lot easier if the sway bar wasn’t so close to the filter location.



After you attempt to drain all the oil out of the filter, wipe the area off with a rag. Make sure you don’t damage the oil filter drain gasket if you plan on using it again (I did). Then using your 65mm 14 flute oil wrench and 3/8” extension, twist the cap off. Once you turn it a couple times you’ll be able to twist it by hand…be prepared for more oil! Drop the whole assembly into your oil pan as it’ll make it easier to clean your hand and the area around the oil filter assembly. Once you have the truck portion cleaned up, remove the old oil filter that remains on the lower assembly and replace it with the new one. They should just pull off and push on. If you plan to change the gasket, do it now. Twist the lower assembly that holds the filter on taking care not to cross-thread. Then use your oil filter wrench to twist it tight. Make sure to put your oil filter drain bolt back on (make sure the gasket it on the lower assembly, then put the bolt on). Oil Filter Drain Torque: 13 N·m (127 kgf·cm, 9 ft·lbf), Oil Filter Cap Torque: 25 N·m (255 kgf·cm, 18 ft·lbf). Once everything is tight, fill your engine up with the motor oil of your choice and check your oil level on the dipstick. I used 7 quarts and it put the oil level perfectly in the middle of the empty and fill portion of the dipstick, which is where I like it. Made it easier not to use half a quart too, but the manual does call for 7.5 quarts.

Start your engine after filling and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Make sure you oil pressure is in the operating range. Check for leaks.



You’ll need to put the skid back on now. It’s not as bad as everyone says it is. Above are the holes you’ll need to align the hooks of the skid with. Make sure to have the plastic tabs of the front bumper overlapping the skid, otherwise the skid won’t go back into place. Then using the reverse process of removal, hand install the rear bolts into the skid, working your way forward taking care not to cross-thread the bolts or screws. Take care not to over tighten the screws and strip the plastic. Bolt Torque: 29 N·m (296 kgf·cm, 21 ft·lbf), Screw Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in·lbf).


To reset your maintenance reminder system (even if the light hasn’t come on yet), you’ll need to turn your key to on (but don’t start!) and make sure your odometer is on TRIP A. Then key off. Press and hold the Odometer/Trip button. While holding down on the button, key the ignition to on (Don’t start the engine!) The display panel will count down from “------“ to “-“Continue pressing the button until the Trip A is displayed. After this step, you are done. Drink a couple beers for a job well done! As a notice, I don't condone drinking and driving



Since this was the first oil change, I didn't have a UOA done on it. I examined the filter and noticed very, very small shavings, but nothing that would restrict the flow.

If you would like more information about the Toyota Tundra, look here: Toyota Tundra Forum

[Toyotalover2]

I like using quick oil drain valve, which makes oil change easier a little. The ball valve has a lever and allows you to drain the oil by moving the lever. The valve is well-constructed and wouldn't open during your drive. It is good idea to install it if you change the oil three or four times a year. I found and bought it at: Fumoto Quick Oil Drain Valve: Change the oil without Tools or Mess!. The price is around $20.

[kcinco]

I previously owned a 2007 Tundra but never had the nerve to do the filter change. I currently own a 2010 Sequoia. This afternoon I did the oil change thing. Here are my comments.

1. If you haven't tried it, you can do it (unless you are one of those people who worry about getting cancer because used motor oil touched your skin).

2. The hardest part was getting the skid plate back on. The cover hangs in the front on two (sideways) hooks. On the Sequoia, the skid plate front bumper (plastic) screws to the skid plate (the three "yellow" screws). These three screws don't hold the skid plate on ... they just secure the bottom of the bumper to the skid plate). I recommend that you take the (red) screw farthest to the rear (center) out last. When it comes out, the back of the skid plate will come down. The cover is really not all that heavy. You can hold it up with one hand ... but it would hurt if it whacked you in the head. Like I said, getting the two front hooks back up into their holes at the same time is not easy. It might help to make a mark on the skid plate and the frame prior to removal to help line things up when trying to get the hooks re-engaged.

3. The messiest part was draining the filter before removing the filter cap. I had a filter drain tool ... which I put a piece of tubing on ... which really did not help. I probably did not push hard enough on the drain tool (i.e., jam it into the hole with everything you've got ... it is probably supposed to snap into the hole). In my case the oil ran through the tool, around the tool, and down my arm. I switched hands right before the oil got to my waterproof, solar powered, self-setting Casio watch.

4. When I started removing the filter drain plug, the whole filter cap turned. Since I didn't know if that was good thing or bad thing, I managed to get a strap filter removal tool on the filter cap to prevent if from moving while removing the filter drain plug (not easy). After the experience in step 3 above, I'm not sure it would not have been better to just take the filter cap off and let all the oil fall into the oil drain pan.

5. Before I started, I was somewhat confused about where the O-rings were and went. It turned out that this was not really much of an issue. The drain plug O-ring fits into an obvious groove around the outside of the hole where the plug goes. I popped it out, checked it, cleaned the O-ring and the groove, popped the O-ring back in, and put the plug back in. The larger O-ring for the filter cover also fits into a groove. It will probably still be in the proper location after you get the cover off so you will know were it belongs. The groove is about 1/2" up the outside of the cover from what looks like a small flange. The O-ring (in its groove) slides into the smooth inner bore of the filter chamber as the cover is screwed into position. By the way, be aware that the filter cover is a touch plastic material. Cross threading the plug or cover is a real concern so be sure you have the threads lined up right. Re-use of the O-rings is probably just fine if you inspect them to ensure they are not damaged. I suspect that a used Toyota O-ring is better than a new FRAM O-ring.

6. The filter element slides onto a perforated tube on the filter cover. When I took out the original Toyota filter element, it was somewhat distorted. I replaced it with a new FRAM element from Walmart, but have ordered a package of ten Toyota elements from TrdParts4U.com ($4.80 each ... plus shipping).

7. It looks like my filter cover was probably originally installed using the 3/8" socket wrench via the filter drain plug ... which explains why the cover started to come off when I tried to remove the plug. Tightening the plug is required to prevent leaks (compresses the small O-ring). Tightening the filter cover is not required to prevent leaks (the large O-ring slides up inside a smooth cylinder), but tightening is required to keep the cover from unscrewing itself and coming off.