Engine Care and Automotive Maintenance Forum Engine Care and Automotive Maintenance Forum

» Site Navigation
» Home
 > FAQ
» Log in
User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
» Sponsors

Go Back   Engine Care & Maintenance Forum > Engine Care & Maintenance > Engine Lubrication/Oil
Register Home Forum Gallery Active Topics Blogs Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Engine Lubrication/Oil Discuss engine lubrication/oil issues in here.


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-03-2008, 09:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2
Default Is factory oil in new 09 camry V6 synthetic ?

In April I purchased a 2009 Camry V6 LE assembled in Georgetown Kentucky during February 2009. I believe the engine was imported from Japan. The car had 4 miles on it when I bought it and it gets incredibly good gas mileage (well over 30 mpg on premium gas 50/50 city/highway driving & 36 mpg highway at 65 - 70 mph) and I want to keep it that way. I'd like to know if synthetic oil was used for the original "factory" oil fill and what brand.

I have used Pennzoil all my life. The owners' manual (more aptly described as owners' book with 480 pages) is silent on synthetic oil. Since the cost of synthetic versus regular oil is nil, I would prefer to run synthetic. What I would like to know is what kind of 5w30 oil was installed in the car when it was new and is there any reason NOT to use Pennzoil synthetic at my first oil change.

I know many years ago that people that swithced to Mobil 1 from regular oil would complain of increased oil consumption. The oil consumption rate on my car is virtually zero (dispstick level has not moved from full in 2000 miles), consistent with my prior experience with Lexus and Camry V6 engines.

Any advice on using Pennzoil synthetic for my first oil change when I hit 4,000 miles would be appreciated. Thanks.
Paul3637 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-21-2008, 12:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
Super Moderator
 
jwko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: AR - US
Posts: 13
Default

Thats a good question. I don't see how an engine could properly "break in" using synthetic oil. Synthetic is supposed to eliminate engine wear, to break in an engine means slight engine wear. I would use conventional motor oil to about 10k to allow the engine to fully break in. Then switch to a true synthetic oil like Mobile 1.

You might want to research brands. There are a lot of oil's claiming "full synthetic" but are actually petroleum based. Amsoil and Mobile 1 are true synthetic.

Stay away from Fram oil filters, they are junk.

Last edited by jwko : 10-26-2008 at 08:28 PM.
jwko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2008, 07:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwko View Post
Thats a good question. I don't see how an engine could properly "break in" using synthetic oil. Synthetic is supposed to eliminate engine wear, to break in an engine means slight engine wear. I would use conventional motor oil to about 10k to allow the engine to fully break in. Then switch to a true synthetic oil like Mobile 1.

You might want to research brands. There are a lot of oil's claiming "full synthetic" but are actually petroleum based. Amsoil and Mobile 1 are true synthetic.

Stay away from Fram oil filters, they are junk.
Thank you. You are correct on the use of mineral oil during the break in period. I emailed Toyota and the actually emailed me back and confirmed that the car is factory filled with mineral oil, not synthetic but said it was "acceptable" to use synthetic oil after 5,000 miles - but once you switch, don't go back to mineral oil. Since I only drive about 4000 miles in 6 months, I plan to use regular Pennzoil 5W-30 for the first two oil changes. As to fram filters, I know they are junk and plan to use only genuine Toyota oil filters and have the service performed at the dealer in order to keep the warranty in tact.

Last edited by jwko : 10-26-2008 at 08:28 PM.
Paul3637 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2008, 05:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
Default Warranty

I agree that using synthetic would be your best option. My personal suggestion would be to first-of-all, change your oil every 3,000 miles, regardless of the grade of oil you use AND what your owner's manual suggest. Your best idea would be to use a synthetic blend for your first and second oil changes and between 9,000 and 12,000, switch to a full synthetic. The synthetic will improve and maintain your already impressive fuel economy while reducing engine wear, as mentioned before.
The only thing I would like to correct about anything mentioned before, is that you will NOT void a warranty by servicing your vehicle anywhere other than the dealer. A requirement of service at any one particular service station would be considered monopolizing, and is illegal in the United States, and I'm sure in many other countries as well. You're welcome to go to any station for any or all of your service. The warranty states that you must perform services on time (check your owner's manual), and you should keep all of your receipts. You may even opt to perform your own maintainance, but keep the receipts showing that you purchased enough oil (6.4 quarts for the V6) and a replacement oil filter. I haven't done this before, but I'm sure if you speak with someone at the stealership, they will tell you the same. Be careful for tricky talkers.
Hope that helps you out in saving some time or money or both! I would only go to the stealership for warranty/recall work. They don't necessarily have any more knowledge about your car then any other mechanic... Don't give them anymore trust because of their name.
On a side note, I spoke with a lady regarding a car problem she was having. I'm not going to name names, but the Toyota dealer that she chose to visit offered to fix her problem for $800... said her charcoal canister needed to be replaced. Just from her description of the problem (loss of power, reduced ability to climb hills, and the "Check Engine", "TCS" and "ABS" lights were all illuminated), I explained that a vaccum line was disconnected or missing at the air filter box (I've seen this many times). I reattached the vaccum line and disconnected the battery (to reset the computer and allow recalibration of the emissions control system). Long story short, a misdiagnosis could have costed a lot of money to replace a perfectly functioning part, and wouldn't have solved the problem. I fixed it in under one minute for free. Somehow the dealer knows best though. Think about it.

Phil
phillyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2008, 12:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Danielsville, PA
Posts: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwko View Post
Thats a good question. I don't see how an engine could properly "break in" using synthetic oil. Synthetic is supposed to eliminate engine wear, to break in an engine means slight engine wear. I would use conventional motor oil to about 10k to allow the engine to fully break in. Then switch to a true synthetic oil like Mobile 1.

You might want to research brands. There are a lot of oil's claiming "full synthetic" but are actually petroleum based. Amsoil and Mobile 1 are true synthetic.

Stay away from Fram oil filters, they are junk.
I guess the millions of engines built by GM, Chrysler, Ford, Porsche, BMW, etc don't break in properly if they come filled with a synthetic!!!
The Factory Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2008, 06:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Concord, Ohio
Posts: 6
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
I agree that using synthetic would be your best option. My personal suggestion would be to first-of-all, change your oil every 3,000 miles
Wrong! My Aura has a oil life testing system and i change mine every 5000 mi w/ no problems to the engine.
'Vette Dude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2008, 05:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 11
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Vette Dude View Post
Wrong! My Aura has a oil life testing system and i change mine every 5000 mi w/ no problems to the engine.
Conventional oil too, right? Perhaps premium Kendall synthetic blend? Tire shop's $19.99 oil change? First of all, GM vehicles are equipped with an Oil Life Monitor, not an Oil Life Testing System. How exactly does your Saturn check the viscosity and additives in your oil. Does your engine have sensors to detect particles that may have slipped through the filter? Turn on the ignition and press the information and reset buttons simultaneously and release. This puts at the personalization menu, right? Keep following... press the information button to scroll through the options until you reach... wait for it... OIL-LIFE RESET. It's not magical when you have your oil changed and the car doesn't bug you for another one anymore... the technician just reset it for you. Hope that doesn't hurt too bad, but the car isn't as smart as you think. According to Saturn of Fredricksburg, if the oil life monitor was accidently reset, return for service 3,000 miles after your previous service.
Saturn of Fredericksburg - Fredericksburg area Saturn dealer in Fredericksburg Virginia. Woodbridge used Saturn dealer. Warrenton Saturn dealer cars parts, Stafford Virginia used Saturn dealer cars parts, Spotsylvania Saturn dealer cars parts, King G

Your car's computer monitors engine revs, acceleration, and shift points to determine an estimated oil life (based on your driving habits). Care to see if I'm lying?, drive your car like its a race car and watch that percentage drop faster. Drive like you can barely reach the pedals and you won't have to change your oil for a year! Keep watching that monitor, I'll keep watching my odometer.

No problems from the engine, hunh? Taken it apart lately? Do you have any experience in the automotive field? Probably not going to keep your car long enough to experience the long term effects anyway. It will become someone else's problem, right? Keep 'saving' money on fewer oil changes then... its almost buy-one-get-one-free.

I was merely trying to offer advice. Research a little before you attack me. I'll accept it if I'm mistaken, and apologize for any misinformation, but don't jump down my throat. I don't know you.
phillyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  Engine Care & Maintenance Forum > Engine Care & Maintenance > Engine Lubrication/Oil



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0.0

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.1.0
(c) AutoForums.com, Inc.