Here's what Blackstone Laboratories has to say concerning oil viscosity...
"For the sake of efficiency you want to run the lightest grade oil in your engine possible, within limits. We are seeing that trend for newer engines, for which the recommended grade is getting progressively lighter. The common 10W/30 has become a 5W/30, and some manufacturers even recommend 5W/20 oil. On the other hand, we can't see (in oil analysis) where it hurts anything to run heavier 10W/30s or even 10W/40s in modern automotive engines. The heavier oils provide more bearing film, and that's important at the lower end. If your oil is too light, the bearing metals can increase. If the oil is too heavy, the upper end metals can increase. The trick is to find the right viscosity for your particular engine, which is why we suggest following the manufacturer's recommendation."
Click on the link below and it will take you to an article written primarily for Corvairs and other flat tappet engines, but covers the viscosity very well.
Stick with the 5W-30, and if you want better turbo protection, especially if you are not adding water cooling or continued oil circulation after shut-off, go full synthetic.
Biggest problem in turbos is shutting them off when hot, cooking the oil in them. Worse yet is restarting after 2 or 3 minutes when the bearings are expanded from the heat and end up spinning or damaged.
i always shut the car off a minute after driving OR after egt goes below 800 degrees.
i was checking out eneos or nippon 0w30 oil. im currently using royal purple. any feedback on those oils in comparison to royal purple?
it looks like 0w30 would be a better oil than 5w30. it would be better at cold startup and winter lubrication and would still provide the same 30w protection
Last edited by b16stalyun : 05-08-2008 at 08:04 PM.
Here's what Blackstone Laboratories has to say concerning oil viscosity...
"For the sake of efficiency you want to run the lightest grade oil in your engine possible, within limits. We are seeing that trend for newer engines, for which the recommended grade is getting progressively lighter. The common 10W/30 has become a 5W/30, and some manufacturers even recommend 5W/20 oil. On the other hand, we can't see (in oil analysis) where it hurts anything to run heavier 10W/30s or even 10W/40s in modern automotive engines. The heavier oils provide more bearing film, and that's important at the lower end. If your oil is too light, the bearing metals can increase. If the oil is too heavy, the upper end metals can increase. The trick is to find the right viscosity for your particular engine, which is why we suggest following the manufacturer's recommendation."
Mike
I made a post about this on b15sentra.. as far as efficiency is concerned friction makes up LESS THAN 10% of your engines losses. so for those of you who are wondering, No, using 0W-30 won't save you any money - yes it will screw up your engine. 0W-30 should onlybe used where it's very cold.. like Alaska
There is nothing wrong with 0W-30 in place of 5W-30 or 10W-30 as long as it is synthetic, and it normally will be.
If you check out the article in my signature, you will see how the viscosity works.
A good full synthetic 0W-30 can be labeled 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 and 30. I show a 10W-40 that has the same viscosity curve as other 5W-40's.
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Oil Viscosity
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Amsoil is the best synthetic on the market,hands down...
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