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Coolant Systems Discuss the care and maintenance of automotive coolant systems in here.


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Old 04-23-2008, 12:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bleeding the coolant system

Bleeding the Cooling System *In six years owning, and working around Fiats, I've heard some really bizarre procedures for bleeding the system, including massaging hoses, jacking up one side or another, revving the motor/not revving the motor, etc/etc. I'll share my favorite method here, and wait to be flamed via return mail
Note: Dan Frederick (who has more Spider experience than I) swears that my method is correct, but that jacking up the front end (or parking uphill) greatly facilitates filling the Cylinder Head with coolant. I've never had a problem personally on flat ground, but I'm willing to defer to his experience on this issue. I disconnect the left 'Radiator to Tee' hose at the radiator, and slowly fill the system. Make sure the Heater Valve is open. Patiently fill the system, and listen for escaping air - If you fill too fast, you will create air pockets that will complicate the bleeding procedure.
Once you have the system as full as you can get it, attach the hose to the radiator again. Fill the radiator and recovery tank to the top, and have at least a gallon of coolant mix handy for the rest of the procedure. Start the engine (If Carbureted, get it off fast idle as soon as you can), and let it IDLE. As the engine warms up, you will see the first big pockets of air escape - keep the radiator topped up, and watch the temp guage - Once you get past about 180 degrees, install the radiator cap. Let the engine continue to warm up, and when you start seeing 185-190 on the temp Guage, start feeling the lower hose (radiator to thermostat). If the stat is doing it's thing, it should gradually warm up, but don't panic if it is not. Keep idling (this can take 10-15 minutes in some cases) and watch the guage. If you start seeing 195+ on the guage, shut the engine off and don't touch anything! Wait 5-10 minutes (during this 'quiet time' you should see and hear air escaping into the recovery tank), and then start the engine again. Typically, while the engine sits, it warms the thermostat to the point that it opens right away on a restart. Once you've verified that the stat is open (lower hose and bottom of radiator nice & warm), you should get an electric cooling fan at about 190-195 degrees, that kicks back off again at about 185.
If you experience problems with this procedure, you can let the engine cool for 15-20 minutes, carefully remove the cap, and make sure that the system is full enough- I've only really had this procedure fail if I was too hasty with the initial fill, and did not get enough coolant in the system to start with.

Source: mirafiori.com
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KarenCaren is offline   Reply With Quote
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Old 04-24-2008, 04:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info!

Let us have any more if you have it!
awd4life is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2008, 02:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Goes to show you can complicate anything you want. Just fill it and the plastic reservoir, start the engine and wait for it to circulate into the radiator (if it even has a cap you can leave off). Then drive it normally (not on a long trip) and turn it off normally. The next day, or later the same day if it had a chance to cool, if there was any air left in it, the air will be in the reservoir and the coolant in the radiator/engine. Refill the reservoir to its proper level and drive. If you really think you might have still left air in it, check again the next day.
No big deal, no technology here.
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well said,,not tooooo much rocket science here!!!!!
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